Thursday, July 23, 2026 – 4th day

Navarra – La Rioja

Zubiri – Pamplona – Puente de la Reina

45.50 km

We left this morning from Pamplona at six thirty in the morning with a taxi that took us back to Zubiri to complete the stage and reach Thorqui, which was parked in the city’s motorhome area. So far, so good.

In the morning when we stepped out into the world, the fatigue from the previous day had disappeared, but the aches 🤭 remained, intensifying as we covered more kilometers. Today’s stage wasn’t particularly complicated, except for a climb of forty steps uphill that was a bit tough; the rest was quite manageable and enjoyable. 

The towns we passed through today were many and varied, but all had that characteristic northern touch, with mountains covered in lush forests, large traditional farmhouses with white or gray stone walls and sloping red tile roofs due to the rain and snow. Windows and balconies painted in red or green adorned with colorful plants like hydrangeas and geraniums. Most of the stately houses you encounter are emblazoned with stone coats of arms belonging to ancient noble families.

Larraosaña once had two hospices and a monastery that are practically destroyed, and its medieval bridge, which crosses the Arga River, was known as “the bandits’ bridge” due to the number of robberies of pilgrims that occurred in the Middle Ages. Just before entering Zuriaín, we came across a small dam with a grassy shore that seemed perfect for stopping to eat something and relax by the shore 🫠. I mentioned yesterday that we are taking note of these places to return and enjoy them as they deserve.

While preparing the itinerary, we read that entering the cities could be very tough and sometimes felt eternal… We can attest to that.

Pamplona has two entrances along the Camino, and we opted for the one at the Puente de la Magdalena, which ended up being closer to the area where Thorqui was waiting for us, and it is also declared a Historical-Artistic Monument. Reaching it, three kilometers of park with little shade following the course of the Arga River felt very, very long. Crossing it and entering the citadel was quite an achievement on our part 🌉; we’re not sure what the incline was, but given how we were feeling… it felt like Everest in its final stretch… You have to experience it… 😉.

A little stop to regain strength with a small beer in the Old Town, which is certainly beautiful, so we took the opportunity to stroll around, something we didn’t do yesterday.

Back home without much delay, we headed to Puente de la Reina, where we were supposed to spend the night at a campsite near the town center, but upon arrival, we were told that they had reserved the entire site for an event, so with no motorhome area available, we had no choice but to continue to the next point where we barely managed to get the last available plot. It turns out it’s a bridge in the area 💃.

Since they had two nights available, we decided to stay and tomorrow we will go back to Puente de la Reina to complete the corresponding stage.

The campsite is great, and it’s refreshing to be able to set up a table and chairs to sit on your porch after the hike and take a dip in the pool 🙃.

We’re not very hungry because we actually arrived so tired that we just snacked on something quickly and not much more. My intention, like in the past few days, is to go to sleep no later than eight thirty. T will hold out a bit longer, but I don’t think it will be too late 🥱.

Good night… I’ll keep you posted 😘